I’m going to show you how to install a pocket door frame, and this is Pinky, he’ll be shadowing me for training purposes.
First, the rough opening needs to be twice the width of the door plus one inch.
Next, I mark both jambs at 80 ¾” off the floor.
This should leave me about ½” of clearance under the door.
Then I drive a nail at the center of each mark, leaving about an 1/8” protruding.
I slip the ends of the frame header over the nails to hold it in place.
You’ve gotta make sure the header is perfectly level so that the door won’t roll open or shut on its own.
Once it’s good you can finish driving in the nails. The directions say to add additional nails but I’m going to use T25 screws for this.
Now I snap two chalk lines on the floor even with the jambs.
I slide one of the steel studs into the floor plate, I butt it into the header, and then I plumb down and make a mark on the floor where I need to mount the base plate.
Since I’m going into concrete, I’m going to predrill with my SDS hammer drill and mount the base plate with Tapcons.
I mount the second plate midway in the pocket area.
Next using the screw that came with the kit I’m going to mount the steel studs.
Just slip them over the base plate, slide them against the header, and put in two screws.
There are studs on either side of the pocket door opening and the door slides in between these.
Drywall will be mounted to the steel studs. The kit comes with self-tapping drywall screws.
I use a level to plumb the second set of studs before attaching them to the header.
The door will mount to these two hangers with wheels that ride along the track.
When the door is open it will slide into this pocket.
Let me know in the comments-Do you think you could install one on your own now? @hausplans
#build #howto #carpentry #construction #door #pocketdoor #diy #contractor
